A dive into history and lángos

Hungarian National Museum--mesmerizingly good

I spent over five hours in the Hungarian National Museum (Magyar Nemzeti Muzeum), and I started at the 17th century, not at the first beginning.  The exhibits were THAT GOOD.  I mean, amazing. A combination of artifacts, clothing, documents, paintings, multi-media. I was mesmerized.  I was even disappointed that I couldn't have more translations available on all the documents, rather than the overview that I was hearing on the audio-guide I had purchased for 700-some forints/hour. The clerk counted out the hours that I had had the earphones, and amazed requested to take the total sum out of the 10,000 forint note I had left as deposit.

If there was any disappointment, it was in the André Kertész exhibit, which had few of his photographs and more of him. . Or in having to check my bag and then lug my camera and wallet and notebook around me for the six hours, since well, I'm a worry-wort and don't think it's safe to leave valuables at the coat check.

Across the street from the museum are a number of used bookstores, which I ducked into for some help locating any books about WWI military medals or pre-Trianon maps of Hungary. It amazes me daily how many people speak English.  When I visited here in 1994 with my aunt, uncle, cousin Maria, and two sisters, we didn't have that experience.  But truth to be told, I do love the challenge of having to learn phrases and try them out.

Drum Cafe, Dob utca in the Jewish quarter

After coming up empty in the bookstores, I set off to find some food as I was starving. I was close to the Astoria metro station, where I stayed in a small studio for the first two nights last week, so I poked around the neighborhood looking for something good. And boy did I luck out.  Not much on the outside, but the Drum Cafe had delicious food, especially the lángos (fried bread) stuffed with gyulas beef, sour cream, and cheese.  And the chef himself spent a good deal of time finding me a place (Football Factory, 55 Bajcsy Zsilinszky utca VI), the Hungarians are goo-goo-ga-ga over Ferencvárosi Torna Club aka FTC.